Went to town to get some art supplies and more items for the kitchen. We went to a shopping area near the river. We thought it had several shops and a museo. Turned out to be totally dedicated to panama hats. There was a small museum that had displays of the history of the hat making. There were three women demonstrating how the hats are made (mostly by hand). It is a difficult process of weaving a kind of reed/fiber (pajo taquilla for you aficionados) into the hat structure. Ecuador developed the hat in the 1500s. Cuenca became the center for production in the 1800s. The hat was very popular with American workers in Panama in the early 1900s, hence the name. The main style, in Ecuador is called the Montecristi. There are two major companies that make the hats (both in Cuenca). We visited the Barranco family outlet.
Had lunch at our favorite restaurant on the main square. It is right next to Iglesia Nueva. It is, actually, called Catedral de la Immaculada Concepcion - but everyone says Iglesia (or Catedral) Nueva. There is an Iglesia Vieja across the square that is now a museo. The restaurant looks out onto the square. There is a long paso with archways just outside the restaurant. At each archway, there is a shoeshine man. They have a portable, metal cart. It has a chair, foot rests, drawers for supplies and a newspaper rack. The shoe shiner sits on a small stool (about a foot off the ground) facing the shoes. The man, outside our window, was fascinating to watch. He applied the polish by hand, caressing the polish into the shoes. His customers were mostly businessmen. Their shoes appeared to be expensive leather. He then took two brushes and brushed both shoes at the same time. He had this kind of choreographed routine that was very entertaining. Then came the rag to polish. Then a repeat of the polish, brush and rag. He went into this rocking motion, at times, like he was in a trance. A true artist. Had seven customers while we ate lunch, also.
Went to another local mercado near our route home. Not as big as the one downtown. It was pretty quiet. Sunday is the big day. Bought some new frutas from an indian lady. She was very nice and helpful. She seemed to take a liking to Becky. Most of the indian women vendadoras are strictly business. This lady was about her business, also. But when we were finished she loosened up and actually laughed at one point. I think it was the first time we have seen laughter from these woman. We think they live a hard life. They all look much older than they probably are. We pass a young indian woman on our way to or from school, occasionally. She is all of 17. Has a baby strapped to her back. She pushes a large cart full of oranges that she sells on the street. She wears the traditional clothing. It is a reminder of how or why life ages them so quickly.
Found some brush cleaner/media that doesn't reek. I am going to do several small paintings of the morning view out of our apartment. Thought I would finish yesterday, but can't get the houses/rooftops right. I am going to have to send a picture to my coach Leah Mantini. Socorro, Leah.
Going to the gigantic mercado this morning. Hope to get some good pictures. Anything goes in this place, supposedly.
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